Japan Day 16: Beppu
January 16.
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I need to preface this day by reminding everyone the only reason I wanted to go to Beppu in the first place was because of one specific ramen shop. No other reason, just Yume Wo Katare.
The train today is going to be a little bit of a long ride, mostly because there's no train that cuts right through the water, so it's straight west, then looping back to the south and east. Two trains, 186 miles in only three hours, I love Japan's train system.
Beppu is in Oita prefecture, and is the furthest south I've visited so far. It doesn't feel it as the temperature is in the middle 40's, but Beppu is on the same longitude as Northern Africa and Charleston, South Carolina. There is something really hot in Beppu, and it's what they're most well known for: hot springs. Mount Tsurumi erupted in the year 867, and since then, thermal vents and hot springs take up the entire mountainside, sliding all the way down to Beppu Bay.
The hotel I booked in Beppu is right next to Beppu tower, but I can't even leave the train station without seeing signs everywhere for the "Hells of Beppu." Where the city itself is on the side of a volcano still pushing hot steam out everywhere, why not call it Hell? There's a hot spring right at the station that you can dip your hands into, and the mall across the street is advertising a hot spring foot bath in the basement. Several restaurants advertise they cook food with the heat coming from the thermal vents. I'm already sold.
Beppu itself has a retro vibe, their tourism industry kicked into gear starting in the late 1950's through the 1960's. Beppu Tower was the third major communication tower and observatory built in Japan, there's an amusement park, the Hells of Beppu, steam cooking, beaches, an aquarium, and the ropeway up to the top of Mount Tsurumi. Instead of updating to newer and modern buildings like most other Japanese cities, Beppu seems content with their retro vibe, and I have no problem with this whatsoever. Beppu Tower is old, it feels old, and it looks old. Most of the glass on the observation deck has cracks in it, but it just adds to the charm. The tower itself is only $3 to visit, so you really can't complain, and the views of the city on the hill and out over the bay are beautiful.
Next on my list is the Hells of Beppu tour, which will take me through seven of the observable hot springs that have cool colors and extreme temperatures. The hottest of the hot springs is 95C, which science tells me is just shy of boiling. It's either $4/ea or $20 to see all the Hells, so of course I want to see them all. Some of the hells feature mineral water with the water's color based on the minerals in it, and other Hells that are full of bubbling liquid clay. Some of the Hells are even used for animal breeding purposes, as the warm waters are perfect temperature for crocodiles. There's also a small fish aquarium at one of the Hells, and Tatsumaki Jigoku is a geyser with a recharge time of only 30 minutes, making it one of the most frequent in the world (quicker than Old Faithful). All this for $20, what a steal.
While waiting for the bus that would take me to the Ropeway for the climb up to the top of Mount Tsurumi, I had a bowl of ramen at a shop called Furari, which was this 50's styled ramen shop. All the artwork in the shop was of 50's cars and pinup girls, and they played oldies songs the whole time. I ate a spicier than I thought bowl, but it was a fantastic little place.
I also found a cute little dagashi. In the states it would be referred to as a penny candy store, which have long since disappeared. Creativity is keeping dagashis in business is not only their very cheap prices, but their welcoming feel, as it's a place welcome for kids to hang out, and all the candies have a quirk. I brought home some gums for my friend Matt, and there's three pieces of gum in a pack, but one of them is incredibly sour, $0.33 a pack. Fast forward: Matt, myself and the spouse all tried the gum at the same time, and I lost having found the incredibly sour piece.
The Ropeway up to the top of Mount Tsurumi is nearly vertical, it's a very steep slope. There are four ropeway towers that the car rides past on it's way up the mountain, the tallest of which being 42meters, and it needs to be this tall to prevent the cars from scraping the tops of trees, it's a truly terrifying trip, but it's also an amazing view back down on Beppu. I didn't exactly realize it at first, but Mount Tsurumi's peak is 4,510ft. Beppu Tower is 328ft. Dorothy, we're not in Kansas anymore.
I learned there was a walking path up to the peak of the mountain, I couldn't avoid the temptation to go for it, even though the temperature up here is around 30 degrees. While on this little hike for the last meters to the top, there's a bit of inspiration: 7 Dwarves of Good Fortune. As I slowly climb to the top, there are seven little stops along the way with a dwarf at each of them, made in the character of prominent historical figures. The views along the trail and the top of the mountain are incredible, and sadly, photos will not do it justice.
After the trek back down to downtown, I checked into my hotel room and found out that the hotel has a hot spring inside (I actually forgot, whoops), but noticed the sign said "No Tattoos." This is a bummer because I even if I can't use the hot spring, I still have to pay for the spa fee. I asked the guy if tattoos were fine and he said something along the line of, "It's okay, you're the only one here today." Score one for me! Unlike Hakone with it's prefect temperatures, Beppu is Hell. The hot spring has a cool water tap so that I can cool down the hot spring as needed, and let me tell you, I thought I burnt my leg off when I first dipped it in the water. After cooling the spring from "Lobster cooking," down to "Hot spring," It was the perfect way to relax before dinner.
Yume Wo Katare Beppu is a quick 15 minute bus ride from my hotel straight down the main street and two blocks over. I was super excited to see these guys, mostly because they're so far away from home, and also, Ryoma was working there! He did some training in the Boston shop for a few months, so it's always cool to see a friendly face. The portions in Beppu were huge, I was told it was 300 grams, but it was bursting from the bowl. I shared my dream in Beppu, which was to buy a pair of Evisu jeans the next time I go to Japan.
What a day. What a city. I literally wouldn't have come here if it wasn't for a bowl of ramen.
I need to preface this day by reminding everyone the only reason I wanted to go to Beppu in the first place was because of one specific ramen shop. No other reason, just Yume Wo Katare.
The train today is going to be a little bit of a long ride, mostly because there's no train that cuts right through the water, so it's straight west, then looping back to the south and east. Two trains, 186 miles in only three hours, I love Japan's train system.
Beppu is in Oita prefecture, and is the furthest south I've visited so far. It doesn't feel it as the temperature is in the middle 40's, but Beppu is on the same longitude as Northern Africa and Charleston, South Carolina. There is something really hot in Beppu, and it's what they're most well known for: hot springs. Mount Tsurumi erupted in the year 867, and since then, thermal vents and hot springs take up the entire mountainside, sliding all the way down to Beppu Bay.
The hotel I booked in Beppu is right next to Beppu tower, but I can't even leave the train station without seeing signs everywhere for the "Hells of Beppu." Where the city itself is on the side of a volcano still pushing hot steam out everywhere, why not call it Hell? There's a hot spring right at the station that you can dip your hands into, and the mall across the street is advertising a hot spring foot bath in the basement. Several restaurants advertise they cook food with the heat coming from the thermal vents. I'm already sold.
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| Hand warmer hot spring outside Beppu Station, Beppu. |
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| Hot Springs, Sake, and Steamed Food, Beppu. |
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| Foot bath in the basement of the mall, Beppu. |
Beppu itself has a retro vibe, their tourism industry kicked into gear starting in the late 1950's through the 1960's. Beppu Tower was the third major communication tower and observatory built in Japan, there's an amusement park, the Hells of Beppu, steam cooking, beaches, an aquarium, and the ropeway up to the top of Mount Tsurumi. Instead of updating to newer and modern buildings like most other Japanese cities, Beppu seems content with their retro vibe, and I have no problem with this whatsoever. Beppu Tower is old, it feels old, and it looks old. Most of the glass on the observation deck has cracks in it, but it just adds to the charm. The tower itself is only $3 to visit, so you really can't complain, and the views of the city on the hill and out over the bay are beautiful.
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| Beppu Tower, Beppu. |
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| North View, Beppu Tower, Beppu. |
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| South View, Beppu Tower, Beppu. |
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| West View, Beppu Tower, Beppu. |
Next on my list is the Hells of Beppu tour, which will take me through seven of the observable hot springs that have cool colors and extreme temperatures. The hottest of the hot springs is 95C, which science tells me is just shy of boiling. It's either $4/ea or $20 to see all the Hells, so of course I want to see them all. Some of the hells feature mineral water with the water's color based on the minerals in it, and other Hells that are full of bubbling liquid clay. Some of the Hells are even used for animal breeding purposes, as the warm waters are perfect temperature for crocodiles. There's also a small fish aquarium at one of the Hells, and Tatsumaki Jigoku is a geyser with a recharge time of only 30 minutes, making it one of the most frequent in the world (quicker than Old Faithful). All this for $20, what a steal.
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| Hells of Beppu #1, Beppu. |
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| Hells of Beppu #1, Beppu. |
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| Hells of Beppu #2, Beppu. |
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| Hells of Beppu #3, Beppu. |
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| Hells of Beppu #3, Beppu. |
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| Hells of Beppu #3, Beppu |
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| Hells of Beppu #4, Beppu |
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| Crocodiles, Beppu. |
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| Hells of Beppu #5, Beppu |
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| Hells of Beppu #6, Beppu. |
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| Hell steamed pork bun, Beppu. |
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| Tatsumaki Jigoku Geyser, Hells of Beppu #7, Beppu. |
While waiting for the bus that would take me to the Ropeway for the climb up to the top of Mount Tsurumi, I had a bowl of ramen at a shop called Furari, which was this 50's styled ramen shop. All the artwork in the shop was of 50's cars and pinup girls, and they played oldies songs the whole time. I ate a spicier than I thought bowl, but it was a fantastic little place.
 |
| Spicy Ramen, Furari, Beppu. |
I also found a cute little dagashi. In the states it would be referred to as a penny candy store, which have long since disappeared. Creativity is keeping dagashis in business is not only their very cheap prices, but their welcoming feel, as it's a place welcome for kids to hang out, and all the candies have a quirk. I brought home some gums for my friend Matt, and there's three pieces of gum in a pack, but one of them is incredibly sour, $0.33 a pack. Fast forward: Matt, myself and the spouse all tried the gum at the same time, and I lost having found the incredibly sour piece.
 |
| Dagashi candy store, Beppu. |
The Ropeway up to the top of Mount Tsurumi is nearly vertical, it's a very steep slope. There are four ropeway towers that the car rides past on it's way up the mountain, the tallest of which being 42meters, and it needs to be this tall to prevent the cars from scraping the tops of trees, it's a truly terrifying trip, but it's also an amazing view back down on Beppu. I didn't exactly realize it at first, but Mount Tsurumi's peak is 4,510ft. Beppu Tower is 328ft. Dorothy, we're not in Kansas anymore.
 |
| A look up to the top of Mount Tsurumi, Beppu. |
I learned there was a walking path up to the peak of the mountain, I couldn't avoid the temptation to go for it, even though the temperature up here is around 30 degrees. While on this little hike for the last meters to the top, there's a bit of inspiration: 7 Dwarves of Good Fortune. As I slowly climb to the top, there are seven little stops along the way with a dwarf at each of them, made in the character of prominent historical figures. The views along the trail and the top of the mountain are incredible, and sadly, photos will not do it justice.
 |
| View down the ropeway, Beppu. |
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| Top of Mount Tsurumi, Beppu. |
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| Panorama of Beppu from Mount Tsurumi, Beppu. |
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| The Seven Dwarfs of Good Fortune, Mount Tsurumi, Beppu. |
After the trek back down to downtown, I checked into my hotel room and found out that the hotel has a hot spring inside (I actually forgot, whoops), but noticed the sign said "No Tattoos." This is a bummer because I even if I can't use the hot spring, I still have to pay for the spa fee. I asked the guy if tattoos were fine and he said something along the line of, "It's okay, you're the only one here today." Score one for me! Unlike Hakone with it's prefect temperatures, Beppu is Hell. The hot spring has a cool water tap so that I can cool down the hot spring as needed, and let me tell you, I thought I burnt my leg off when I first dipped it in the water. After cooling the spring from "Lobster cooking," down to "Hot spring," It was the perfect way to relax before dinner.
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| Beppu Tower at night, Beppu. |
Yume Wo Katare Beppu is a quick 15 minute bus ride from my hotel straight down the main street and two blocks over. I was super excited to see these guys, mostly because they're so far away from home, and also, Ryoma was working there! He did some training in the Boston shop for a few months, so it's always cool to see a friendly face. The portions in Beppu were huge, I was told it was 300 grams, but it was bursting from the bowl. I shared my dream in Beppu, which was to buy a pair of Evisu jeans the next time I go to Japan.
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| Giant bowl of ramen, Yume Wo Katare, Beppu. |
What a day. What a city. I literally wouldn't have come here if it wasn't for a bowl of ramen.
January 16 by numbers:
- Photos: 360
- Miles walked: 11
- Steps: 22650
- Total Calories Burned: 4589
- Bowls of Ramen: 2
-Joe
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